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Title: Thian Hock Keng Temple


javewu - June 12, 2006 08:43 AM (GMT)
Thian Hock Keng Temple (Temple of Heavenly Happiness)

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Claimed to be the oldest and most important Hokkien temple in Singapore, this place of worship houses a number of relics, some reputed to be several centuries old, which have been brought over from China. It was gazetted as a national monument on 6 July 1973. Thian Hock Keng has undergone several renovations, the latest in 1998.

Completed in 1842 to replace a simple joss-house built some two decades earlier, not a single nail had been used in the construction, not even for its pagoda-shaped roofs. Instead the entire structure is supported by iron-wood posts and granite imported from China. The temple boasts of gilded carvings, tile roofs adorned with dragons and phoenixes, intricate sculptures from China, pretty blue porcelain tiles from the Netherlands, and cast-iron railings from Scotland. The early builders understood well the significance shapes play in temple architecture, and the Thian Hock Keng is a fine example. It has windows that are circular to symbolize heaven, square to symbolize the earth, and tiles which were meticulously laid out either in square patterns to symbolize the mouth, implying that one would never go hungry here, or in an upside down “V” pattern, symbolizing “ren”, the Chinese word for “men”, to suggest that one can regard this place as a sanctuary.

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According to Geraldene Lowe in her book, “Chinatown Memories”, some materials used in the construction of the temple had been salvaged from junks plying between China and Singapore. Crockery broken during the rough journey were recycled too, turning up as mosaic pieces adorning the feathers of birds, petals of flowers and on other ornaments dotted throughout the temple.

Tan Tock Seng who contributed $3,0474.76, then a princely sum, for the temple building fund, topped the donor’s list. This information, along with that on the founding of the temple, are inscribed on plaques installed near the main entrance.

Guarding the majestic entrance to the temple are two stone lions. The female one holds a cup representing fertility while her male counterpart holds a ball, symbolizing abundance. Before entering the temple, a devotee has to cross a rather high threshold. This is deliberate. For one thing, it forces him to cast his sight downward, an expression of humility, as is expected when one enters a sacred building. Another purpose is to keep out wandering malevolent spirits – it is believed that ghosts shuffle when they move, so this threshold was placed to trip them up. The more pragmatic would explain that the threshold is keep flood waters at bay, since the area was susceptible to flooding.

One of the main deities in the Thian Hock Keng is Mazu (Goddess of Seafarers/Patron of Sailors). She is accompanied by her two sentinels, one with vision that spans 1,000 miles and another gifted with ears that could hear 1,000 miles away. Years before the land in front of Telok Ayer basin was reclaimed and named Collyer Quay, Hokkien immigrants would step out of their junks somewhere behind Telok Ayer Street, possibly very close to the Ying Fo Kuan, a Hakka Association Hall established in 1822. Fresh off the boat, these chaps would invariably head for a “joss house” to give thanks to the Gods for their safe arrival after a long journey across the treacherous South China Sea. That was how the joss house at Telok Ayer Street, precursor to the Thian Hock Keng, came to be erected.

An exquisite likeness of Mazu was said to have been brought to Singapore from Amoy (Xiamen) in 1840. An elaborate procession was held that day as the Goddess made her way from the waterfront to grace the then newly-completed temple in Telok Ayer Street. Several other deities are worshipped in the Thian Hock Keng, among them Confucius, the God of Wealth, the God of Health, the Goddess of Mercy, the Sun God and the Moon Goddess.

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Two pagodas flanked the Thian Hock Keng – the one to the right, nearer to Boon Tat Street, is said to contain ancestral tablets of a group of Hokkiens from the same village in Amoy who had landed in Malacca. Those men continued to keep in touch with each other after settling in Singapore. Today some of their male descendants still carry on this tradition of holding reunions, opening up the shrine on the eve of Chap Goh Meh, Cheng Beng Festival and Hungry Ghost Festival. The other pagoda nearer to Amoy Street had been the kindergarten section of a girl’s school in the 1970s. It has now been converted into a café cum souvenir shop. The two pagodas have very striking roofs – they are red and shaped like a gourd. The significance of the gourd-shape is explained at length in Geraldene’s book. She wrote that before glass and porcelain had been invented, medicines were stored in gourds which had been left to dry. As such, gourd-shaped talismans worn on the body were believed to have the power to protect its wearer from diabolical forces out to wreak havoc on one’s health. Eventually some temple roofs took on this shape too – to indicate that there is a herbalist or physician on site. Perched high above other buildings, and with such a striking colour, it was easy for people to spot such a temple.

Thian Hock Keng is managed by the Hokkien Huay Kuan (Association for the Hokkien dialect group), located just across the road. Originally, this dialect association was housed in the temple itself. Tan Tock Seng’s son, Kim Cheng, was the association’s pioneer President. During his tenure, the temple cum huay kuan was the focal point of the Hokkien community, serving not only as a place of worship, but also as a meeting place for the community, a recruitment centre for coolies as well as a safe-house from unruly elements.

Location:
158 Telok Ayer Street
Singapore 068613
Tel: 6423-4616; 6222-2651


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Blog Link: http://chinesetemples.blogspot.com/

"Reported by Bro Victor" on 23 Feb 06

javewu - July 11, 2006 09:22 AM (GMT)
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javewu - March 15, 2007 07:59 AM (GMT)
Thian Hock Kheng, an old temple that we, the local, cannot forget or have any disconnection with it.

This year, Thian Hock Kheng started to have ceremony for paying respect to Tian Gong (Jade Emperor) using the traditional folks taoist ways.

Is this a sign of Thian Hock Kheng wanted to resume the culture of Taoism? Or assisting the local new generation to know more abt the culture of the Hokkien Clan?

For me, both I will definitely support and agreed on. Either of which, Thian Hock Kheng choose, they are promoting our root culture of the Chinese.

Let's keep a look out on the up-coming Ma Zhu Birthday, hope we can see some surprises :P

javewu - May 10, 2007 07:40 PM (GMT)
Thian Hock Kheng, giving Ma Zu a Birthday Surprise

Yesterday, 23 of Lunar 3 Month (9 May 2007), in our Taoist Calendar, this is the day recorded for Ma Zu’s (Goddess of the Sea) birthday. Needless to say, a lot of local Temples and Folks Taoist Groups will have their celebration honouring our dearest Ma Zu.

This Year, one of the oldest Temples in Singapore – Tian Fu Gong, hkk: Thian Hock Kheng, gave Ma Zu a really big surprise.

What is the surprise?

The surprise was, by inviting our local Taoist Priests to conduct a Birthday Ritual for Ma Zu on the actual day.

From the records that we know till today, never or rarely there’s any Taoist Rituals being performed for Ma Zu in Thian Hock Kheng before, and so, this year, is the year that can be considered as Thian Hock Kheng engaged Taoist Priests for the “First Time” in the history.

In-order to initial the “start” of passing-down our culture of Taoism and “change” the Religious History of Thian Hock Kheng, the Event Committee specially engaged the Local Senior High Priest – Master Tan Kok Hian to perform a day’s Taoist Ritual in the Temple, honouring Ma Zu’s Birthday.

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Pic by Mr Victor Yue

The whole ritual started in the morning at about 9am, followed by inviting of Jade Emperor, presenting offerings to Jade Emperor, Blessing on Devotees belongings, Birthday Respect Ritual to Ma Zu, Send off Jade Emperor and then Rewarding the Spiritual Armies.

The whole ritual ended in the late noon and all the offerings (like Longevity Peaches, Noodles, etc) were given out, leaving nothing left (estimated of 1000++ peaches).

To me, as a Taoist, a devotee of Ma Zu and a young Singaporean, seeing all this makes me feel touched, delighted, anxious and really happy. If you will to ask me whether this event is successful, I will definitely stuck up my 2 thumbs saying: Extremely YES.

Why?

Firstly, knowing that Thian Hock Kheng is engaging Taoist Priests to do the Ritual already makes me feel great – a chance to promote our very Local Taoist Culture to the locals

Secondly, seeing so many devotees turned up for the events

Thirdly, add in a new page of Local Religious History

Lastly, so many researchers turned up to make records on the change.

If you are a Taoist or a devotee of Ma Zu, don’t you feel great too?

Anyway, the event is already over, hope that next year, our dearest Thian Hock Kheng can give us more surprises.

Gong De Wu Liang

Dao Qi Chang Cun


'fusheng'

javewu - May 10, 2007 08:56 PM (GMT)
Suggested Route for paying respect to the Deities in Tian Fu Gong (Thian Hock Kheng)

Tian Fu Gong, a well-known 100 over year local Chinese Temple, honoring Ma Zu (Goddess of the Sea) as the main Deity.

A lot of time, when a devotee walks into Tian Fu Gong, he/she will start to ask him/herself question like: “Tian Fu Gong is so big, and there’s so many halls, which one must I start with first?”

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In-order to solve the enquiries for some of them, I have come out with a proposed route for paying of respect to the Deities inside the Temple, here it goes:

Step One:

For us Chinese, always enter a Temple through the Right Hand Entrance (Dragon Gate, Facing the Temple)

While you are entering into the Temple, do not step on the “Threshold (a wooden block is placed at the bottom of the door frame)”.

While you are entering into the Temple, at the same time, make a simple bow, this is to inform the Deities of the Temple that you are entering into their premises, you respect them so you make a bow to them.

NOTE: Never enter a Temple through the Central Main Door.

Step Two:

Proceed to the Incenses Booth, get a set of Incenses.

Proceed to the front altar (facing the Heaven) (1), gently light the Incenses by using your left hand to hold them and bring them forward to the lamp.

While the Incenses is lighted up, gently used your right hand to fan the flame off.

Step Three:

NOTE: Due to no specified Incenses Urn dedicated to Jade Emperor, devotees just need to face the Heaven and make your request.

After paying respect to the Heaven, turn in to the Main Hall, kneel on the cushion provided, pay your respect to Ma Zu (2), request what ever you needed to request, make 3 simple bows and then proceed to the next altar.

Step Four:

Proceed to the Right Altar where Guan Gong (3) is.

Repeat the procedure in Step Three.

Step Five:

Proceed to the Left Altar where Bao Sheng Da Di (4) (Deity of Medicine) is.

Repeat the procedure in Step Three.

Before you proceed to the Rear Hall, sincerely and respectfully placed the Incenses into the Main Urn situated in the front court-yard.

Step Six:

Proceed to the Rear Hall where Guan Yin (5) (Goddess of Mercy) is. After paying your respect to her, remember to pay respect to the 2 Lords standing beside her.

They are the Sun and Moon Lords, in Chinese, we address them as Tai Yang Xing Jun and Tai Yin Xing Jun.

Step Seven:

Proceed to the Right Hand Side Hall (where the Washrooms are).

First, pay respect to Kong Zi (6) (Sage of Academic) and then proceed to pay respect to Qie Lan Ye (7) (Buddhist Form Guan Gong).

NOTE: All the Deities share the same Incenses Urn, so only placed your Incenses in the Urn after you pay respect to all the Deities in this Hall.

Step Eight:

Proceed to the Left Hand side Hall.

Walk straight to the altar that is dedicated to Kai Zhang Sheng Wang (8) (Ancestor of the Tans), follow by paying respect to Cheng Huang and Da Er Ye Bo (9).

NOTE: All the Deities share the same Incenses Urn, so only placed your Incenses in the Urn after you pay respect to all the Deities in this Hall.

Step Nine:

Due to Tian Fu Gong doesn’t allow devotees to burn Joss-papers, so your whole paying of respect will end after Step Eight.

Before you leave, simply make a bow to the Main Altar and then, walk out from the Tiger Gate (left door).



javewu - May 14, 2007 05:31 PM (GMT)
Report by Mr Victor Yue (Local Taoism Researcher and Observer)

Tian Fu Gong celebrates birthday of Ma Zu (Goddess of the Sea)

Tian Hock Keng (Tian Fu Gong)
Telok Ayer St
Celebrations in honour of Mazu
Wed 9 May 07 (3M23)

Hi folks,
9 May 2007 was the birthday of Mazu (23rd of 3rd Lunar Month), more popularly known to the local grannies as Ma Chor Po in Hokkien. And Tian Hock Keng was more commonly known then as Ma Chor Keng. For a moment in time, it was known more as Tian Fu Gong, probably, in line with the Speak Mandarin campaign. And so, this temple is known by at least three names. The more common officially known name of Mazu is Tian Hou Niang Niang, one of the many titles bestowed on him by the emperors of China.

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I couldn't help but thought that I should take a day off to absorb this event. For some reasons, I felt that it would be a milestone in the history of Ma Chor Keng (Ma Zu Temple). Only time will prove me right. Interestingly, C.C. (Professor from HongKong) was "tricked" by my posting in this list into coming to Singapore to observe the events over the few days, starting from Sunday, 6May07. I hope again, time will tell if his trip was worth it.

Being an off day and an opportunist in sleeping late, I had a late morning breakfast enroute to Tian Hock Keng. A good fishball noodle breakfast at Hong Lim FC with good local Singapore coffee, was something I would not have a chance if I don't take leave. Stopped a while to see the small scale Mazu celebration at HongLim complex and then, I was off to THK, hoping that I did not miss much as I understood that the ceremonies would start at 9am. Ah, maybe, Jave can give us a running commentaries on the many sessions and the intention of each session. I learnt from CC when I arrived that they already had completed three sessions, including the invitation of the Jade Emperor and other Deities to attend the birthday party.

It has been years (as far as I could remember, given my less than oft visits to THK in the earlier years) and I could not remember seeing a Taoist ritual in THK. The few times I was there during Mazu's birthday, it was always Buddhist rituals. This time, there were Buddhist rituals from Sunday till Tuesday, and the Taoist ritual on the actual day.

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Master Tan, probably one of the most senior, if not the most senior Taoist Priest in Singapore, was presiding in this ritual, with his team. Dressed in the colourful robe, Master Tan stood regal as he led in the ritual, first with Ms Sim of Hokkien Huay Kuan holding the dragon-head- joss-stick- handle, and later with another two members from the Huay Kuan (Association) . Other members of the public joined in forming a small entourage paying respects to Tian Hou Niang Niang (Official Title for Ma Zu). The temple building resonated with the rhythm of the drums, gongs, cymbals and na (Chinese version of the oboe, or something like that), giving us the atmosphere of the temple events that must have witnessed such gathering in the past hundreds of years. Through this ancient music, we were linked to our ancestors, bound together in appreciating the wonders of Mazu as she guided so many Chinese coming to Nanyang. The famous Cheng-Ho (Zheng He) is said to have Mazu in his wooden ships and whenever they encountered fierce storms, they would pray to her for guidance, and it was said that the sea would then calm down again.

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The courtyard was filled up with loads of flowers and offerings as devotees brought them to offer to Mazu. The number of pre-packed offerings of the peach-buns ran out fast with many disappointed office workers not being able to buy to make an offer. There was a temporary altar set up for the Jade Emperor complete with sugar cane, an indication of Hokkien origin.

Apart from the Guan Yin temple at Waterloo St, I think this must be the temple where the devotees certainly had much to talk with Mazu. Given the modern comfort, devotees waited patiently for a free kneeling stool so that they could kneel in comfort to have a chat with Mazu. Men and women, both had their words with Mazu. There were also grandmas and grandpas showing their grandchildren how to pray to Mazu. The first steps.

During the rituals, seated in one corner, next to the pillar was an old man dressed in black, the robes used by Buddhists (laymen who have "committed" themselves to Buddhism, known as kui-yi, would dress in black, as one could see more often in Buddhist led funeral rites as well), with both hands clasped and watching Mazu as Master Tan led in the Taoist ritual. Wah, I thought to myself, mutual respects and different communication medium.

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Meanwhile, the stream of people coming in continued. The number of people lining up to tiam-yu (making a small donation of oil) was quite long as temple assistant tried to get the name of each person and announced to Mazu and pouring a little oil on an oil lamp. The donation box got stuck! Someone has to use a steel rule to push the money in. The oil lamp in a crystal bowl was too small to take the continuous flow of oil. Ah, come next year, I think a bigger oil lamp with runoffs to store overflowing oil might be needed.

At another side of the temple, donations to the temple with receipts were also being made. Old men and ladies, mostly, wanted to do their bit. "What's your name?" as the young people there in Mandarin, trying to understand what Chinese characters were they of the names. In some cases where the devotees could write their names, they resolve it. In others, it took a while trying to guess. It did not help that some of the Chinese names could be in the original Chinese characters rather than in simplified form. (^^) And to the Chinese, using Chinese characters for one's name is important, in terms of the number of strokes. So, you can imagine what happened to the kids' names so lovingly given by their parents or grandparents, only to be changed to pinyin. I am not sure how many were affected by their fengshui then.

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I was testing the burning towers on both side of the temple to see if there would be a chance of having burning of joss papers returned as part of the original ritual. Alas, they had it concreted. No chance without hacking through the concrete. With some modern technologies, burning of joss papers could be handled to meet environmental requirements. And then, I noticed that there were no trays or holding stations for candles! In the past, my impression of candles were, the whole candles were used by the Hokkiens and those with only the top, showing the bamboo sticks before, they were Cantonese. These days, in most temples, the so called Cantonese versions are used. But in THK, there is no place for the candles. Some innovative guys put them in the joss stick urns. Instead of candles, the devotees could buy the lotus shaped candles (fat and round) and they could be placed on the tables. This is probably more Buddhists. From another perspective of sales, one can raised more money through the sales of the lotus candles.

Most of these lotus candles were actually thrown away before they could burn for five minutes, because of the lack of space. I hope they are being recycled. Many people whose home got caught in the recent blackout caused by the electric storm would appreciate some candles at home.

It was almost lunch time. A pair of lions arrived, adding to the "commotion" of the temple event. Noise is a must in Chinese events, and so, it only enhanced the atmosphere with the drums and gongs of the lion dance adding to the different rhythm of the Taoist Priests, more commonly known as SaiKong (referring to the Zheng Yi taoist priests who have very closed symbiotic relationships with the temples, especially, the sintuas). Imagine the lions wading through the crowd of devotees, some with joss stick, some lighting theirs, and some kneeling and praying. And as many believed that one would get blessings and good luck by touching the lions, the poor guy at the back of the lion had to ensure the stroking hands of the Ah Sohs (older ladies).

To the steady stream of tourists visiting the temple (on normal days, the tourists could exceed the number of devotees), it was a pleasant surprise (probably many might go away thinking that the temple is like that every day, won't that be great?) as they could now film the local devotees in action, praying and following the Taoist Priests in the rituals, with two prancing lions all over the place.

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What's more, the Putien Restaurant has set up a stall at the rear of the temple offering free food! Of course, there's always a place for donations for those who do not believe anything is free. These donations would, I believe, go towards the upkeep of the temple. Ah, wasn't Mazu from PuTien? I missed the makan (food) but was told that the mee-sua (think flour-noodle, eaten during birthdays for longetivity) was good. My German friend had two helpings!

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It was a day worth spending just loitering in the temple, watching the different facets of the activities at different times. Ms Sim of SHHK is one super wonder woman who took care of the event and apart from seeing that everything is in order, she also has to participate in the rituals, as a representative of the "sponsoring" organisation. Master Tan was another "hero" of the day, leading the devotees through the rituals. He even took time to explain to the Ah-Sohs the Taoist Way of putting the hands together in offering the gesture of respect to Mazu. Most Chinese follow the Buddhist/Hindu ways of putting two flattend palm together. One long time Taoist, introduced to me by Master Tan, was so happy with this day's event. He remarked that he could see Mazu smiling watching the crowd of devotees and the familiar sounds of the Taoist Ritual. He had waited long for this day. With him was another much older person who came along with another frail dazed-looking lady in a wheelchair, to pay respects to Mazu. This lady must have seen Mazu since her young days. One might grow old, but Mazu remains the same, gazing down as her devotees benevolently, with her serene look. Ah, a visit to her temple is worth many trips to anywhere else.

Many thanks to Singapore Hokkien Huay Kuan for making this a wonderful event, an event that many Hokkien descendents could recall with pride on their (and their ancestors) contributions to Singapore over the years, guided by Mazu. Mazu will still be there when the next generation comes along to celebrate her birthday.

javewu - August 1, 2007 04:59 PM (GMT)
Report by Mr Victor Yue of Taoism Singapore eGroup

Hi folks,

Another wonderful evening it was that went well despite the threatening skies. This is one of the three times that Thian Hock Keng vibrates with the Southern Sounds (Nan Yin) as Siong Leng Musical Association performs and sings in honour of Guan Yin. It is also the time where the older folks look forward to. One lady was telling th President of the Association that she has been following the performance for the past 4 years!

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This night saw the comperes presenting in Mandarin, Hokkien and English. I noticed some caucasians in the crowd. I remember some time ago, they had one compere who actually presented in the ancient language. "Wah, cool!" I thought. The tones were so nice and soothing to the ears, unlike the coarser Hokkien (Minan Yi) these days. (^^) Maybe, in the future, with a projector showing the narration, we could hear the ancient language again. (^^)

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We saw a group of three generations performing, carrying on this very ancient tradition and arts. Even, a visiting artiste, Ms Wei, commented that she was touched that faraway Singapore could maintain and preserve such arts of the old. With the youngest performer, probably in the primary school, Siong Leng shows a very strong cohesive troupe and also shows that there is hope that this tradition will survive and continue. The challenge will be getting the Singaporeans, especially, the Chinese to appreciate this music. With the ability to read Mandarin, there is still hope. With the ability to speak and hear Hokkien, better still.

As I looked around the courtyard that was almost spilling over (there must have been more than 200 people) .. they had to keep on taking out for chairs ... I saw more silver hair. Yes, there were pockets of youngsters, but these older folks filled the courtyard of Thian Hock Keng. And certainly chairs are required for them. There was an old man sitting on a wheelchair with two tanks (oxygen?) and tubes in his nose enjoying the performance. Ah, it must have brought him to the days of the old, the old village of his younger days. The songs were familiar to these folks .. they clapped their hands softly to the rhythm of the beat and music, which might sound somewhat melancholic to some.

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As in tradition for the past 20 years, after singing the song composed in the Association dedicated to Guan Yin, with the leading members of the Association and Singapore Hokkien Huay Kuan, led by a venerable, with the audience all facing towards the main hall, the members followed him in repeatiing words of prayers in Hokkien.

It was another wonderful evening for the Nan Yin lovers.

Watch out for more pictures and video clips in www.chinatownology. com

Victor
Singapore

PS: Siong Leng Musical Association will be performing the Opera "Li Ya Xian" on 11 Aug 07 at the Esplanade. There's still tickets available for the afternoon show.




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